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Thinking about installing solar panels on your RV? This in-depth yet beginner-friendly guide breaks down RV solar basics and explains everything you need to know about RV solar system setup, including the components, costs, and practical tips from years of full-time travel experience.

Why You Might Want an RV Solar Power System

It’s no secret that traveling without a reliable power source these days is kind of a drag. It’s one thing if you’re a tent camper and a minimalist who doesn’t need or want to stay connected to the outside world. But if you’re living for any period of time in an RV—especially if you’re a working nomad—you need a way to keep your lights, computer, phone, fridge, and heat or cooling systems running.

If you don’t want to deal with the hassle and expense of always staying in an RV park with hookups, or simply prefer the freedom and flexibility that boondocking offers, you need another way to keep your house battery charged. For decades, the only way to do that was to either choose an RV with an onboard gas or diesel generator or to carry a portable one with you, but with an RV solar system, you have another option.

What’s So Great About RV Solar?

These days, many of us still carry a portable generator as a backup, but opt for a solar power system as our main battery recharging method. It’s cleaner, quieter, and over the long haul, cheaper to run. If you maintain it adequately, it’s also more reliable.

Well into my seventh year as a fulltime nomad living in a travel trailer, and now in my fourth rig, I’ve learned a thing or two about RV solar power setups (I’ve had one in every rig except this one, and I’ll soon be putting one in here). One thing I’ve learned is that you don’t want to just jump into buying/building a solar power system unless you really have some idea what you’re doing.

You may have heard that building an RV solar system setup is daunting. I’ll admit that, of everything I’ve done as a fulltime nomad, figuring out what kind of system I need and how to buy all the components, then get them installed or install them myself, has indeed been the most challenging process. There are some important measurements and math calculations that need to be done, and some variables in types of components and how to connect them that you can’t ignore.

But you don’t need to worry about any of this, as long as you take the time to understand how these systems work, which components do what, and how you can combine them to perform the way you need them to.

People worry about the monetary cost, but what they should really concern themselves with is committing the time needed to make good decisions based on sound data. And the only way to generate that data for your solar power system is to learn as much as you can from accurate sources. Otherwise, nothing about buying system components or setting them up will make sense.

Do Your Homework

Learn RV Solar Basics Before You Buy

I was lucky: I was able to pay an electrician to install my first RV solar system setup, knowing only the bare rudiments about how RV solar works. I knew just enough about RV solar basics to purchase the needed components, and because of that, what I got was the proper stuff. A good friend did the heavy lifting on the second system install, allowing me to watch so I could learn more about the wiring. By the time I needed to move my existing system to the new rig shown in the accompanying photos, I was able to do it myself.

I did try to learn as much as I could before I got on the road, but that was back in 2018-19, when there was far less accurate or easily accessible information on the Web. These days, there are countless videos and websites you can consult, with confidence that they’re telling you the right stuff. If you’re technically inclined, you can likely figure out how to do it all yourself. And if not, you’ll at least be prepared not to let some professional installer sell you a bunch of stuff you don’t need for more money than you want to pay.

Where to Learn RV Solar for Beginners: Resources I Recommend

I watched a LOT of YouTube videos and read a LOT of solar-focused websites before I got on the road. That was in 2017-2018, and lucky for you, there is a LOT more accurate, reliable information on RV solar basics available now. Here are some I’d recommend where you can find RV solar explained in beginner-friendly language:

• DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse  – Will looks too young to know what he knows, but he’s a solid source of excellent information about all things solar, including batteries. He bases his info on tests he conducts himself, some of which are fascinating to watch.
• RV Solar 101 : Everything a Beginner Needs to Know – This one from DIY Outdoor Life really is an excellent walk-through of RV solar bascis, includng an explanation of the basic system components. He makes the excellent point that your house battery really determines what kind of solar you can even use.

Size Matters: Choosing Your Voltage System

First, you need to decide which voltage system you wish to use. You can go with either 12-, 24- or even 48-volt. For most RV solar power systems, 12-volt is a good starting point, especially for basic needs and smaller setups. And since this article deals with basic systems for beginners, we’ll be referring to 12-volt applications here. 

24 or 48 volts can be beneficial for larger RVs or higher power demands, such as when you want to run more powerful appliances like air conditioners. But generally, if your power requirements are less than 3,000 watts, a 12V system is usually sufficient.

Types of RV Solar System Setups

There are essentially three ways to build an RV solar power system:

Full Component System

A basic component system consists of an energy generation source (solar panels), safety devices (charge controller, fuses, shut-off switches), distribution matrix (cables and wiring), 12v energy-to-AC power conversion (inverter), and power storage (battery). Common additions to this very basic setup are a battery health/capacity monitor and a battery usage monitor.

Self-Contained Portable System

This would be a portable power station such as a Jackery, Bluetti, Yeti or other, lesser-known brand names, and a matched portable solar panel to recharge it. Essentially, these power stations contain all the components listed above, shrunk down to small sizes and packaged in an attractive, rugged, easy-to-carry and use housing.

The ones most folks get are smaller, say up to 500 watts. But several manufacturers are now offering larger units that can power your entire rig as though you were plugged into shore power. Some of these units rival component systems for affordability, without the commitment to a single rig. You can just take them with you when you move to a new camper.

Hybrid System

Many people, after using one or the other of the above options, come to realize they need a bit of both. This is what I do. For example, you might have lived in a tiny teardrop camper and gotten along every well with a 400w-500w Jackery-type power station. But now you’re moving into a larger RV with a built-in, three-way fridge, a furnace, a TV, and more lights.

You could just buy a larger power station, but it will be much more convenient to keep your smaller one and use it just as you did before, to charge your phone and computer and run your coffeemaker or CPAP machine, while installing a basic rig-mounted component system for everything else. Hybrids are also good for using in rigs with slide-outs, because the slides often don’t have any power in the slide itself, as that would take some tricky wiring to avoid anything breaking upon slide extension and retraction. So positioning your portable there can keep you from having to trip over a mess of cords.

Again, for the purposes of this article, I’m going to stick with the component system. You can always add portable features later, if you want.

How Does RV Solar Work? Components of RV Solar Explained

These are the components you’ll need to build a basic functioning RV solar system setup for your RV:

Energy generation source

This would be your solar panels. All solar panels in one system must be of the same monocrystalline type and wattage size. Otherwise, if you run mixed wattages, they will be inefficient, with the largest of the panels only producing as much output as the smallest size.

For example, if you have three 300w panels hooked up with a 200w panel, the three higher panels will only output the same as the 200w panel. I don’t say “200 watts,” because all solar panels are sized according to their highest potential output on a perfectly clear day with the sun directly overhead.

Since those conditions are almost never available, estimate that even when hooked up with matching wattage panels, the ones you’re running will only output about 80% of their rated power. It can be more, but when sizing your panels, err on the side of not enough, rather than too much. That way, you’ll never have less power than you expect.

Distribution matrix

This is the network of cables and wiring you install to move the energy you capture with your solar panels to the rest of your system.

Safety devices

These are the fuses, circuit breakers and cutoff switches you install at strategic places within your wiring matrix to prevent overloads, shorts and resultant fires. Though your system will run without them, these devices should NOT be optional. The right safety devices can save your solar system, your RV and even your life.

Charge controller

This is also a safety device, but it’s a major part of your system and deserves its own listing. The charge controller is what keeps your solar panels from sending too much energy into your battery on clear, sunny days. It basically saves your battery from exploding.

Power storage (Batteries)

Your RV’s battery powers all electrical functions, whether AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current). It can be charged in three ways: plugging into a campground pedestal, using a generator, or harnessing solar energy.

Think of your battery like a bucket—it can only hold so much energy before it’s full. Once fully charged, any additional solar power is wasted and can even harm the battery.  Therefore, it is essential to ensure not only that your solar panels can generate enough power to meet your needs, but that you have a battery bank that can store the right amount of power. This includes being able to store enough energy to use overnight, when your solar panels are not generating any power.

Remember: No matter how much your panels can create, you can only use as much power as your batteries can store.

Common types of RV batteries

There are a few common types of batteries that you can use to power your RV.

Lead-acid: While affordable, they are heavier, require regular maintenance (checking water levels), and have a shorter lifespan compared to lithium-ion. Their capacity decreases over time.

Lithium-ion: These batteries are increasingly popular due to their high efficiency and lifespan. They are significantly more expensive upfront than a lead-acid battery, but they are lightweight, long-lasting, and require little maintenance.

Sizing your battery

You’ll need to determine what size battery bank your RV needs to ensure you can store enough power to use when your solar panels cannot harness energy (like at night or in overcast conditions). You can use this simple formula to determine how large your battery bank should be: 

​​Using our earlier example of 1600 watt-hours per day, divide this by the battery’s voltage (e.g., 12V). This gives you 133.33 Amp-Hours, the capacity needed to meet your energy needs. Remember that for lead-acid batteries, you’ll want to double this number to ensure the charge doesn’t fall below 50%, which can cause damage. Check your RV’s current battery to see its amp-hours (Ah) are enough to meet your needs if you switch to solar or if you’ll need to invest in a more robust battery bank.

You want to strike a good balance between how fast your battery(ies) charge up and how quickly you run them down. Battery storage capacity is measured in amp hours (Ah). Ideally, you want a large enough battery that it can store all the energy you need in a day while the sun is shining, to both power what you use during the day and keep you going overnight to run your onboard systems while you sleep. You don’t want to run down a lead-acid battery past 70% if you can help it, and definitely not below 50%, or you’ll damage it. Lithium batteries can theoretically be run all the way down, but it’s best to leave a buffer of 10-20% if possible.

Energy-to-power conversion (Inverter)

This is your inverter, and it needs to be properly sized for the rest of your system. It converts the 12v DC power your solar panels gather into 110v AC power that can be used with regular two- or three-pronged plug appliances like radios, hair dryers, computers, TVs, etc. The inverter comes after the battery in your distribution matrix/wiring setup, and it must be sized to include the largest starting draw of any of the items you’ll plug into it. Here is an excellent video that explains this important component in depth.

Common additions

These would include a battery health/capacity monitor and a battery usage monitor. Common makers of these components are Midnite and Victron. They are really nice to have and I highly recommend using them, but your system can run without them. All you need to get a vague sense of your battery’s charge level is a 12v USB charging port somewhere with a digital readout. It’s enough to keep you from running it down too far.

Types of RV Solar Panels

When putting together your RV solar system, one of your biggest decisions will be which type of solar panel to use. There are three main styles worth considering—rigid, flexible, and portable—each with their own pros, cons, and best use cases.

Here’s a quick rundown:

• Rigid panels (like the ones used on residential roofs) are heavy and take up a lot of space, but they’re durable, affordable when bought used, and highly efficient. I’ve used these for years and never had a problem—just be prepared to drill into your roof.
• Flexible panels are lightweight, can be mounted without brackets, and conform to curved surfaces. They’re more expensive per watt and can overheat if glued directly to the roof, but they’re a good no-hole option if you take precautions.
• Portable panels are ideal for small setups or those using portable power stations. They fold away easily and can be positioned for optimal sun, but they’re expensive, fragile, and need frequent attention to avoid wind or water damage.

If you want help comparing these options in more detail—including when each one makes the most sense—check out our full guide to RV solar panel types.

How to Design Your RV Solar System Setup

This is honestly the most time-consuming part of the whole activity. You need to decide a few things:

1. What are my energy needs? How and when will I use the power I generate with this system?
2. What physical configuration will work best with my RV?
3. What is my comfort level with installing it myself? Will I need to get help from a pro installer or someone else who knows more than I?
4. What is my budget?

Let’s take these one at a time.

How to Calculate Your Energy Needs

Before you can choose the right solar setup, you need to understand how much power you use in a day. This involves listing your appliances, finding their wattage, and estimating how long you use each one daily. Yes, it takes a little effort—but it’s worth it to avoid building a system that can’t meet your needs.

To walk through this process in detail—including how to calculate both running and startup wattage and how to factor in things like lighting and charging devices—check out our full step-by-step guide to calculating your RV solar needs.

Here are a few quick tips:

• Think through a typical day and list all the electrical-powered appliances and gadgets you might use.
• Skip battery-powered items unless you’ll be charging them with your solar setup.
• Check the label on each electrical appliance to find the wattage per hour.
• Electrical appliances draw more power on startup. When in doubt, assume startup draw is double the running wattage.
• Don’t forget your lights or fridge! LED bulbs draw about 90% less power than incandescent ones—an upgrade that can make a big difference.

And finally, even if it feels tedious, do the math. You’ll thank yourself later.

Planning your system’s configuration

This is where you really have to do your homework, because no one’s situation is exactly like yours. Here are some questions to ask yourself, to determine your answer. Once you’ve answered all these questions, you should have a fairly good idea of the size of battery(ies) you need, and the components it’ll take to keep them charged.

1. How big is my available roof area?

If you intend to roof-mount your panels, you need to measure available real estate on which to do so. Keep in mind that the sun will travel across the sky each day, so you want to stay away from vertical structures like your AC hood, the stack cover from your refrigerator, and your TV or Internet antennas. Those items can cast shadows across your panels, and even if it only covers one or two cells of the panel, that will drastically affect the efficiency of your entire panel. 

2. Where will I carry my flexible or portable panels while traveling?

This is of course if you don’t plan to mount your RV solar panels on your roof.

3. Where will I locate my charge controller and power inverter inside?

You need to know this to accomplish the next step. Consider such things as whether it will be more convenient to locate it with your other technology in a tech cabinet, or if you’re okay with just placing it out of the way somewhere. Once you decide, imagine yourself reaching for it to program or connect or reset – you may realize another place would be better.

4. Where will I bring the power cables down through the roof?

If roof-mounting, you’ll need to run the cables from your panels down into your living space so you can connect them to your charge controller and, from there, your inverter. Many folks use their refrigerator stack so they don’t have to drill through their roof.

Again, it seems a lot scarier than it is to drill a hole through; just take your time figuring it out and sealing it up afterward. (But I’ll admit I was freaked out until I actually did it. The stakes are high not to make a mistake!) If you are drilling, you’ll need what’s called a “gland” – a plastic pass-through whose openings you should aim toward the rear of your rig so water isn’t pushed into it when you drive.

5. What is my budget?

This is perhaps the most difficult part, because there is so much to consider. Most people probably start with a vague notion of what it will cost. If you don’t have a clue because you really don’t know anything about the components, I would point you to several reliable knowledge sources online. Because you can’t determine a reasonable budget unless you know what kind of components you need for the way you want to use your solar system.

Unless you are a DIYer and can do much of the install yourself, I’d say plan on at least $1,500 for parts and another $500-$1,000 for installation of a 400-watt, single-panel system. You can find a more detailed cost breakdown (and links to specific brands I recommend) in this article: RV Solar Installation Cost: What You’ll Pay for a Basic RV Solar Power System

The good part is that as your needs grow, you can usually keep some of the old components and slowly upgrade as you need to.

Where to get help with your RV solar system setup

One exception to needing a fairly sizable budget is if you can wait to attend an annual Van Aid event in Quartzsite, Arizona. Despite the name, it’s not limited only to vanlifers; anyone is welcome to attend.

These amazing events, usually held in early February on BLM land around Quartzsite, are one of the most tangible expressions of the caring nature of most RV dwellers. People who need things for their rig builds get together and trade either time or money for help from knowledgeable volunteers to install whatever they need, including solar systems. 

In the past few years, design and installation of solar systems has probably become the most sought-after help at this event. I got help with my last system there from an electrical engineer who specializes in solar installations, and it really helped a lot. I probably wouldn’t even have known about him otherwise, and I traded my marketing services for the system upgrade help. 

Often, there’s the opportunity to take advantage of someone selling their outgrown system components cheaply, or even giving them away to those in greater need. I have heard of people arriving with nothing and leaving with minimal but functional 100-watt systems, in exchange for nothing but having helped install their own and maybe another person’s system. Try not to count on that kind of generosity, though: These people are truly busy and harried during this event. So bring what you have to the table, even if it’s just the ability and willingness to cook a meal for your design and installation team.

Final Thoughts on RV Solar for Beginners

Installing an RV solar system might seem overwhelming at first, but after seven years of full-time nomadic living, I can tell you that the freedom it provides is absolutely worth the initial learning curve. The key to success isn’t being a technical wizard—it’s taking the time to research RV solar basics and understand your specific needs, and then doing your homework on the components to design your RV solar system setup.

Remember, you can start small and expand as your budget allows, and the RV community is incredibly generous with support. Your solar system isn’t just about powering your devices—it’s about powering your freedom to discover that the best camping spots come with incredible views and the sweet sound of silence, all powered by the sun.

For some bonus tips on installing an RV solar setup, read this article: Solar Power for RV Tips: Real World Advice from an Experienced RVer